The Hebridean Islands
5th September, 1992
6th September, 1992
7th September, 1992
8th September, 1992
9th September, 1992
10th September, 1992
11th September, 1992
Saturday, 5th September, 1992
Ullapool, Scotland
p very early and got a good quick run to Ullapool, spending half an hour enroute at the Measach Falls. The water gushes 40 metres down a very deep and picturesque gorge. Lovely!
Ullapool, Scotland
The ferry to Stornoway was large, with huge trucks and buses as well as cars. It took three and a half hours and it was pleasant in the sun if you could get out of the bitter wind. We found our B & B without too much trouble, Mrs. Skinner was very welcoming and gave us a choice of rooms so we picked the larger, a rose pink fantasy - pink carpets and bedspreads and lampshades, roses on the wallpaper, curtains and pictures decorating.
It has TV and tea making facs and a hot and cold handbasin. The loo and shower are right next door. So far, so good. Unfortunately, our first impressions of Stornoway and Lewis are not encouraging. We expected a quaint, old fashioned place and we seem to have found a 50's industrial town. I hope to find more prepossessing areas tomorrow. The main worry is that the entire island closes tomorrow for the Sabbath and we won't get fed. We have to find somewhere to eat tonight and there only seem to be pubs.
The Eye Peninsula, Lewis
Sunday, 6th September, 1992
Beach at Great Bernera Is., Lewis
he Sabbath! This means the island is shut for the day. No petrol, no food, no attractions open. We filled the car last night, bought some snacks, filled ourselves up on a gargantuan breakfast this morning and set off. It was raining and fiercely blowing. We went right to the far south point of Harris through moonscape scenery (rocks and peat bogs) interspersed with lochs and waterfalls and, at the far end, a gorgeous golden sandy beach which I had thought until then a figment of the Tourist guide's imagination. Quite an interesting day but I am not mad about Lewis and Harris. Maybe if it were fine?
Monday, 7th September, 1992
The Callanish Stones
ore rain! With ice in it and a wind to cut you in half! I am afraid that Lewis is not my idea of a holiday island. Not that I expected the tropics, of course, but I did expect some fine weather in September. Still...we went on another mystery tour, the high point of the morning being Great Bernera Island, which has a road bridge over its own little piece of the Atlantic Ocean. We drove to the shore, which was very wild and picturesque, with a lovely beach.
The Callanish Stones
hen we headed for Callanish and the stone circles which greatly outnumber Stonehenge although the stones are not as big. It was very impressive, if freezing.
Dun Carloway Broch, Lewis
hen off and away to Dun Carloway, an ancient Broch tower, or the remains of one. Considering it is 8000 years old it is in incredible nick; dry stone construction and very detailed. The wind on its headland nearly blew us off our feet (Not a word of a lie) so we staggered back to the car and headed for Arnol, where there is a Black House, restored (somewhat) as a museum. People were LIVING in this place as late as 1964! A peat fire burned in the middle of the floor, no chimney ("Oh the smoke finds its own way through the thatch"). The thought that people could live in such primitive conditions gives you some idea of Lewis.
e gave it up and came home and Mrs. Skinner offered us a cup of tea, which, since we had not found any lunch, was very welcome. We then changed and had a marvellous dinner at what is obviously Stornoway's best hotel, the Cabarfeidh (prawns and melon, salmon steak, venison, sweets trolley and little chocolate flowers with the coffee.) With a glass of cider each, it came to 35 pounds. Not bad.
omorrow we go to Skye - I hope the weather is better.
Tuesday, 8th September, 1992
ell, here we are on Skye. Mac is getting more Scottish with each passing moment. In spite of the rain I already like Skye much more than Lewis and Portree is charming! Our room is smaller than at Ardlonan but has its own ensuite. The landlady, Mrs. Kemp, is a friend of Mac's cousin, Winifred McLeod, and remembered both Neil and Mac's parents, who also stayed here. The bush telegraph is alive and well on Skye because when Mac phoned Winifred about an hour and a half later she already knew we were here. The guest house is right on the shore and our room has a view of the harbour. The only disadvantage is the lack of parking space; the road is so narrow that you have to reverse in and out. They built the road through people's front gardens and there are still little plots of flowers on the far side, just on top of the sea wall.
Wednesday, 9th September, 1992
Mac in Wet Weather gear, Skye
aining again! I am beginning to think the sun never shines in Scotland. First thing after breakfast Mac went to the North Skye Fisherman's Co-op and bought a suit of wet weather gear, pants and hooded jacket. If this keeps up I may do the same! Still we headed off and spent the morning exploring small roads (wonderful scenery, heaps better than Lewis, even in the rain.)We saw the Folk Museum at Colbost and visited the Skye Silver workshops where Mac bought me a silver ring with a Celtic pattern. It's lovely. We also bought a cheese platter with a tile centre with a Celtic design. I love these Celtic patterns, later in the day we stopped at another studio and bought some screen printed place mats etc with Celtic designs. Since I already have a box and a brooch in porcelain in Celtic design, I think that's probably enough.
Dunvegan Castle
e then moved on to Dunvegan Castle, seat of the McLeod clan. It was interesting in the standard way, their most interesting item being the "Fairy Flag" of the McLeods which is at least 1500 years old. It has apparently saved the clan in battle twice and can only be used once more! (If they try to remove it from its glass case and frame it will surely disintegrate so I hope it never comes to the point)
The gardens were very nice, one of them being a water garden with two cascades and ponds and streams with rustic bridges. After Dunvegan we went on up into Waternish where we happened on the Trumpan medieval churchyard. There are the remains of an old church and some very interesting old burial slabs, one of which has a warrior engraved on it. Quite interesting. Tomorrow we meet Winifred McLeod. I hope I'm feeling better.
Rosemary in the Water Garden, Dunvegan
Thursday 10th September, 1992
till no break in the weather, in fact I think it's worse. We drove south from Portree to Sligachan , Broadford and Elgol. We could hardly see the mountains, Sgurr Nan Gillean and Blaven were almost totally lost. It is so frustrating! I can see that the scenery is beautiful but it is so blurred! Near Sligachan the river was very high, roaring through the arches of the bridge in quite a frightening manner. We cut our trip off a bit short because there seemed little point in just driving when you couldn't see anything.
e had afternoon tea with Winifred McLeod this afternoon; she is a very pleasant elderly lady about Olwen's age, I should think. She is a cousin of Mac's father. Another Clan connection, Donald Campbell and his wife came in to call, as she had told them we'd be here. Tomorrow we will look up a few more. Hopefully it will be clearer, but the forecast is uninspiring. People keep telling us this is not normal, Winifred says it's the worst summer for 50 years. Just our luck! Hope it clears on the mainland. Called the boys tonight - Neil and Claude have been in the wars - Geoff holding the fort. That relieves my mind a bit.
Friday, 11th September, 1992
Kilt Rock and Falls, Skye
t started out wet again this morning but not as bad as yesterday. In fact, the sun came out a few times and the sky was blue for a while. The wind was incredible, especially in the north where there was a Museum of Skye Island Life (half a dozen thatched black houses with photos and implements) and also the grave of Flora MacDonald. On the way there, however, we passed some wonderful scenery, Storr and the Old Man of Storr (a rock formation) lochs,waterfalls etc,it was spectacular.
Grave of Flora MacDonald, Skye
e called on several of Mac's cousins whom he had not seen for 30 years, and saw the area where his family had lived. It is beautiful country. We returned from Uig to Staffin via The Quiraing, which is scenery so beautiful that I am not surprised Mac thinks it is the best in Skye. We had cups of tea and chats with the cousins and it was very nice. One of them, Cathy, was very surprised, but Rona had been phoned by Winifred. While we were there we also met Donald Campbell's son Seamus (we met Donald at Winifred's yesterday).
e leave Skye tomorrow, but we would both have preferred a bit longer. I do hope it's not raining on the mainland.
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