Cumbria - the lovely Lakes District

26th September, 1992
27th September, 1992
28th September, 1992
29th September, 1992
30th September, 1992
1st October, 1992
2nd October, 1992

Saturday, 26th September, 1992


Drop Cap eft York today, our bill receipted in beautiful script by our landlord.
He told us that he is the official "Scrivener, Flourisher and Illuminator" to the City of York.
And we got a sample free!

Helmsley photograph

Ruins of Helmsley Castle, Yorkshire


Drop Cap rove first to Thirsk, the town used as Darrowby in "All Creatures Great and Small", then on through the Dales to Helmsley Castle, a ruin, but really very intact as far as showing what was there. Part of it is an Elizabethan mansion and in one room there is an OLD cupboard with a small door in the middle. Mac opened it and inside there was a plastic spray bottle with a hand lettered label "Ye Olde Windowe Cleanere"- it broke us both up, in that panelled hall.

Rievaulx photograph

Ruins of Rievaulx Abbey, Yorkshire


Drop Cap fter some coffee we went on to Rievaulx Abbey, another ruin but very beautiful and remarkably intact. They were giving a medieval concert with ancient instruments and costumes , very interesting. Unfortunately, we couldn't stay, it was another 80 miles to our cottage in the Lakes District. It was a nice drive, very misty (or cloudy) while we were driving through Herriott country (I found myself humming the theme ) but what we could see was lovely. As soon as we entered Cumbria the sun came out. It was incredible, hope it continues.

Rievaulx photograph

Ruins of Rievaulx Abbey, Yorkshire


Silverholme photograph

Exterior Silverholme Cottage, Cumbria


Drop Cap ur cottage is quaint, not as nice or as well-equipped as the one at Lochearnhead, but we mustn't let that spoil it. We have a little sitting room with a gateleg table and two chairs, armchair and sofa, TV , electric fire (with logs) and an old cabinet. Also floor to ceiling linen press (I guess) all shelves. Also on the ground floor a large kitchen with a stove that needs repair (electric) and an old fuel one. There seem to be plenty of plates and cooking utensils plus an iron and board and a vacuum cleaner. Upstairs is a bedroom with a window seat, an old wash stand as a dressing table and a chest of drawers. The bathroom next door has a bath, no shower - pity, I had hoped for one - and there is a boxroom so we can get the bags out of the way. Tomorrow we will explore the area.


Back to Top Blue up arrow

Back to Contents Yellow up arrow

Sunday, 27th September, 1992

Bridge House photograph

The Bridge House, Ambleside, Cumbria


Drop Cap oday dawned sunny and brightish so we went for an exploratory drive in the area. We went to Ambleside along the lake, which is a pretty town chockablock with other tourists all geared up for hill walking. In Ambleside we found the Bridge House, a tiny one up, one down stone house built on a bridge over a stream. It is supposed to be a summer house or garden folly but is now owned by the National Trust. They say that a family of seven once lived in it. Unbelievable!

Coniston photograph

Coniston Water, Cumbria


Drop Cap hen we drove down the side of Coniston Water and had lunch on the bank. It is breathtakingly beautiful all around, wherever you look. We got home relatively early and walked through the grounds to the shore of Windermere. The lake was full of ducks, swans and motorboats trailing waterskiers. In the woods we frightened some rabbits. It is lovely here, real rainforest, huge trees, moss and fungus.

Monday, 28th September, 1992

Gretna photograph

The Old Blacksmith's Shop, Gretna Green, Scotland


Drop Cap oday was great! It dawned fine, sunny and blue skied though with a peculiar haze which at home I would expect to clear by midday. This one lasted all day. But it was warm and dry so we were up and away early (8.30) heading north for our first stop, Gretna Green, across the Scottish Border. We saw the Blacksmith's Shop and the famous anvil and saw some marriage certificates from early days. The marriages were quite legal, the laws of Scotland being that anyone could marry a couple, providing that they were over sixteen. They didn't need parental consent, only a declaration that they were single and over sixteen. Apparently one such marriage was annulled by an Act of Parliament when it was shown that the bride was only fifteen.

Hadrian's Wall photograph

Mac examining Hadrian's Wall, Northumberland


Drop Cap rom Gretna we came back into England heading for Northumberland and Hadrian's Wall. We discovered great lengths of it plus the remains of two very large Roman forts, Housesteads and Chesters. These fascinating ruins intrigued us so much; there was a lot missing, of course, as the wall was plundered for building stone, but what was there painted a fascinating picture. There were even the remains of latrines and, at Chesters, a marvellous bathhouse, complete with all the features of a modern sauna.

Housesteads photograph

Rosemary at Housesteads Roman Fort, Northumberland


Drop Cap e travelled to and from Northumberland by tracts of magnificent scenery, lakes, mountains, rivers, the hills mostly bare of trees and stark in outline, but so picturesque! The leaves in the woods which do remain are turning now and the colours are great. We saw two red squirrels, some rabbits and lots of peasants (or were they phartridges?) on the way home.


Back to Top Blue up arrow

Back to Contents Yellow up arrow

Tuesday, 29th September, 1992

Windermere photograph

Windermere, Cumbria


Drop Cap e didn't go far today, still tired from yesterday. We went first to Windermere, (the town) via Ambleside and did some shopping, some washing at a laundrette and put my films in for processing. After lunch there we went to the Steam Boat Museum. This is quite unique and very interesting. They have restored several lovely old steam yachts and have a great many photo displays and other exhibits of the steamboats that used to ply the lake. One of them, the "Osprey" takes passengers on a fifty minute cruise. It was very gentle and pleasant. The weather was fair and the Lake beautiful but very crowded. I think I prefer solitude on the water.



Wednesday, 30th September, 1992

Castlerigg photograph

Rosemary at Castlerigg Stone Circles, Cumbria


Drop Cap oday we got away relatively early and headed first for Keswick where we found the Castlerigg Stone Circles sitting in a sheep field. It was quite complete and impressive with crags in the background. Then away again, via Buttermere and Crummock Water. The scenery was incredible, especially as we went up and down Honister Pass towards Cockermouth.

Honister photograph

Honister Pass, Cumbria


Drop Cap nfortunately, it started to rain (after a three day break) as we got out at Muncaster Mill to see an old water mill that was older than Australian European settlement. It was quite interesting; then we went on to the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway. This is a tiny narrow gauge (15 in) railway, not a miniature, but a real railway which used to haul slate and iron ore and granite. We went for the forty minute ride to Dalegarth (and forty minutes back) and in spite of the rain it was really lovely scenery. We came home via two VERY high, narrow and steep passes called Hard Knott and Wrynose, rather terrifying but spectacular! Hopefully the rain is clearing but our time at the Lakes has been good weather so far.

Thursday, 1st October, 1992

Dove Cottage photograph

Wordsworth's Dove Cottage, Cumbria


Drop Cap oday we had intended to find Dungeon Ghyll, a waterfall near Ambleside, but I found when we reached the spot that I simply could not make the halfmile of rough and steep track. So we went to Grasmere and visited Dove Cottage, a former home of the poet Wordsworth. It would have been nice to "wander lonely as a cloud" but there were too many others along. But the Museum is a rarity, because it was started soon after the poet's death by a group of his friends who were determined that his name should live. Therefore it is pretty authentic, it has not been added to and all the furniture etc, belonged to the Wordsworths.


Drop Cap fter lunch by Derwentwater we went on to Windermere to collect some photos. I am very pleased with our photography this trip. No matter what the weather all our photos have come out and some, as Mac says, are postcard quality.

Drop Cap e went to dinner in Ambleside tonight so tomorrow we can clean up everything. A lovely restaurant called Sheila's with a fire going and several Australian wines on the list. I had a great pepper steak and Mac had chicken.

Friday, 2nd October, 1992

Silverholme photograph

Interior Silverholme Cottage, Cumbria


Drop Cap oday it rained as if it meant it! So we slept in and then wandered off to Windermere to do a load of washing. We came back on the Windermere/Hawkshead ferry which saved about ten miles. We needed some milk so went on to Hawkshead village which we have bypassed until now. What a mistake! It is a charming, medieval mini-shambles, ancient posting inns with archways onto cobbled lanes. It is rather a pity it was raining so hard because it is exactly the sort of place to wander in. As it was, we got very wet. The village centre is hidden from the road and it looks not very interesting. But we were so pleased to have found it, in the end.

Back to Top Blue up arrow

Back to Contents Yellow up arrow

Orange left arrow Back to Previous Page Forward to Next Green right arrow