Home to London
19th August, 2000
20th August, 2000
21st August, 2000
22nd August, 2000
23rd August, 2000
Saturday 19th August, 2000
ell, today is the day. Alan (who was housesitting for us) arrived at 10 a.m. and we handed over the keys and the plushpuss.
ur airport shuttle, Anchor Minibuses, confirmed early and arrived right on time, shuttling us through Saturday midday traffic to arrive at the International Terminal by 12.30. With some trepidation we approached the Cathay Pacific desk, but it couldn't have been simpler. She didn't turn a hair, issued the boarding passes and alerted the ground crew that we were three passengers with four tickets. So we were free to have lunch (Macca's), wander for a bit, then catch the plane.
athay Pacific scored well with us generally, in the first flight to Hong Kong. The food was quite good, the staff very pleasant, each seat had its own personal TV with choice of programmes. It was worth getting the extra seat, it allowed us to spread out, and me to put the dinner tray on the spare table.
hen we arrived at Hong Kong, however, we were paged, and they took away one of our boarding passes. Mac made them give us evidence of our extra ticket before we got on the plane, a jumbo, as opposed to the 737 Airbus we had before. There was no trouble though, and we did have more legroom and I had the first traytable ever which actually fitted. However, they kept the aircraft uncomfortably warm and we were all too hot in our winter clothes. Twelve hours later, hot, tired and with my knee aching very badly we arrived at Heathrow at approximately 6 a.m, a bit late because of strong headwinds all the way across China and Russia. (We watched it on our TV set.)
Sunday 20th August, 2000
t Heathrow we collected the bags, bought Airbus tickets to Queensway and validated our Travelcards. This entailed a lot of walking, pushing a trolley, but we got there in the end. The Airbus wasn't easy, you dumped your bags downstairs, then went upstairs, where we must have got the last three seats. It was a struggle and when we got to Queensway at 8.40 a.m. on a Sunday morning, it was not a very salubrious area. However, we found our hotel in Inverness Terrace, the Berjaya Eden Park Hotel, and left the baggage there with our coats because we could not check in until 2 p.m.
Mac and Geoff relax in the Embankment Gardens, London
ondon is fine, warm and sunny, too warm for us in our travel-weary, heavy clothes. But we had some coffee and headed for the Embankment, where we relaxed in the colourful Embankment Gardens, before joining the Edward Pethybridge Theatreland Walk. He is a professional actor of the old school, older than I expected, who took us on a fascinating tour of old London, including former homes of Rudyard Kipling, Benjamin Franklin and Samuel Pepys.
Edward Pethybridge on the Walking Tour
e saw theatres at which E.P. himself had performed, finishing at the Fortune, home of the Woman in Black, in which he starred some years ago. It was a slightly self-indulgent but enjoyable tour, his voice was wonderful and he recited pieces to fit the venues. We had time to get a quick lunch in a Starbucks in Covent Garden during the tour.
Edward Pethybridge at the Fortune Theatre
hen it was finished we took the train to Green Park and walked down to the ticket booth for Buckingham Palace, where we bought tickets for tomorrow afternoon. Our feet were still seriously complaining, so we went back to Bayswater and checked in.
Watergate on the Strand, London
Our Room, Berjaya Eden Park Hotel, London
he hotel room is very warm also, no airconditioning or fans and is quite small for three, but it has a good sized bathroom. We collapsed on the beds and didn't stir for a couple of hours. Then we had showers and went out to get a Burger King meal for dinner. Very good, filling and very pricey. Staggered back to the hotel, where, as I write, the sound of heavy breathing is all around me, not to say snoring. I will join them very shortly.
Tomorrow, Buckingham Palace, but tonight - total collapse!
Monday 21st August,2000
Room for One More, Kensington Gardens
can't get over this weather! Clear blue sky, hot in the sun - I am sunburnt! My watch left a white band on my arm and the open neck of my T-shirt has caught quite a burn.
e slept rather late and went down for our "Continental" breakfast at about 9 o'clock. Juice, cereal, fruit, cheese and cold cuts if wanted, croissants, bread, rolls and pastries. Quite enough carbohydrate even for Geoff.
Statue of Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens, London
e went out for our regal and Victorian day in London, commencing with a stroll through Kensington Gardens. It was quite lovely. Cool breezes tempered the sun and we strolled past the Italian Garden by Lancaster Gate, the statue of Peter Pan, the Physical Energy statue, the Round Pond, seething with swans, geese and ducks.
Sunken Garden, Kensington Palace, London
s time was getting away, we decided to have morning tea at Kensington Palace. The Orangery Restaurant is a very grand converted conservatory, high and light with open windows onto the gardens, topiary and lovely sunken garden of Kensington Palace. We had tea and scones with jam and clotted cream, while Geoff had a brewed Victorian style lemonade. It was a real highlight and very enjoyable.
Albert Memorial, Kensington Gardens, London
fter this we strolled past the statue of Queen Victoria, sculpted by her daughter Princess Louise (blatant flattery if you ask me!) right across the gardens to the Albert Memorial, which has just been restored by English Heritage at a cost of eleven and a half million pounds! It is quite incredible - gilding, mosaic tiles, statuary groups. A Neo-Gothic Victorian extravaganza. I wanted to see it because some of our English Heritage subs must have gone towards it.
Queen Victoria by Princess Louise, Kensington Palace, London
rom here we walked to South Kensington tube, passing the Albert Hall and sundry other Victorian buildings and caught the tube to Victoria. Here we picked up some sandwiches and orange juice to eat in a little square off Buckingham Palace Road enroute to our 2 o'clock appointment at Buckingham Palace.
Buckingham Palace, from the Mall, London
his was amazing!
We filed in, through a security metal search, like at airports. Mac had to hand in his Swiss Army knife to be retrieved later. I bought the brochure (which seemed to be a bit out of date - they have opened more rooms this year) But it was great - I couldn't believe we were actually inside Buck House. It was lovely, very ornate as these places generally are, but with a good collection of paintings. I saw a Rembrandt, a Vermeer, several Van Dycks, Poussin, nothing remotely modern but interesting. Some quite nice furniture and porcelain, but all very ornate.
e left Buckingham Palace and didn't even buy anything at the shop. They had boxes, but I didn't really like any of them, so didn't bother. We had a long coke and danish afternoon tea at Victoria Station before heading back to the hotel. My feet have given out and so have Geoff's. I wish I could just find some comfortable shoes for a long day.
ad a cool bath and feel just as warm. We will go out and have dinner soon. Lots of choice in the area. I might push for Italian, not Pizza Hut either. See how the others feel.
ell, we went to the Angus Steak House, very disappointing. The food was very indifferent, not to say bad, and the service was very uninterested and the whole thing cost 42 pounds 24! This area, Queensway, and Bayswater is very busy, full of ethnic restaurants and old Victorian houses turned into cheap hotels. It is also in the Arabic quarter, lots of ladies in head veils and robes. I saw the first woman I have ever seen in the full face veil, with barely slits for eyes.
Tuesday 22nd August, 2000
nother warm, sunny day. On the TV last night were reports of freak hailstorms, thunder and even tornadoes of the American type from Wales to Yorkshire, coast to coast. Nothing like that in London.
f yesterday was Victorian and regal, today was medieval and Tudor. We headed off for Southwark on the new Jubilee line extension - very modern, the platforms had perspex shields where the trains came, which slid open doors corresponding to the doors on the train. A safety feature - new and quite incredible.
Wrought Iron Gate, Globe Theatre, London
rom Southwark we walked through Bankside to the Shakespeare's Globe Theatre reconstruction which we saw being started in 1992. What a fantastic place, Thatched roof and timber and plaster construction.
Exterior, Globe Theatre, London
e walked through the exhibition, which was great, and then had a guided tour of the theatre itself. It really showed you what actors of Shakespeare's day had to put up with - daylight, raucous groundlings, stink to turn you faint. It was fascinating.
Interior, Globe Theatre, London
e picked up some souvenirs in the shop (there is ALWAYS a shop) Geoff was very naughty and extravagant and bought me a Halcyon Days pill box with a picture of The Globe on it. It was lovely of him.
St. Paul's Cathedral backing the River Thames and Mac, London
hen we had hotdogs on the bank of the river outside, with a great view of St.Pauls across the river, before walking along to the Clink Museum, situated in a building over the foundations of the old Clink prison, owned by the Bishops of Winchester. The whole area of Bankside or Southwark was owned by them and the theatres, brothels, bearbaiting and cockfighting etc. was all under the protection of the "Liberty of the Clink", so it was not under the jurisdiction of the London Authorities. Nice doings for the church. The Clink Prison Museum was rather horrible. I was glad to get out.
Rose Window in Ruins of Winchester Palace, London
Replica of Drake's "Golden Hind", London
e continued along Clink Street to the ruins of the Palace of Winchester, then along Bankside to the dock which holds a replica of Sir Francis Drake's "Golden Hinde", the tiny ship in which he circumnavigated the world.
e were getting tired by now so headed for London Bridge tube for Leicester Square, where I hoped to get half price tickets for "All My Sons" but either it has finished or it has sold out. We walked on to Piccadilly Circus where we bought (full price) tickets for the Reduced Shakespeare Company's "Complete Works of Shakespeare in 90 minutes" which is supposed to be hilarious. We got them for tomorrow night because it isn't on tonight.
o we returned, footsore again, hopefully to a better meal than last night .
We had dinner at Bella Pasta, a chain of pasta, pizza and Italian cuisine generally and it was very nice. We had a non-smoking table in the window and watched the passing parade. Everyone seems to be out and about at all hours, little kids on scooters, veiled ladies and ladies hardly veiled at all. We had a little passeggiata ourselves, and then came home.
Wednesday, 23rd August, 2000
ur last day, and another warm sunny and bright one. I got up early and washed and set my hair, drying it with the hairdryer provided in the room.
e headed first for Covent Garden to find the specialist map shop, Stanford's, where Mac wanted to get the Ordnance Survey maps to fill in the gaps in our itinerary. It cost us 158 pounds!! and there is another great lump to pack. Oh well.
e got the train to Sloane Square and walked to Chelsea, aiming for the famous old Physic Garden. On the way we detoured through the grounds of the lovely old Royal Hospital, designed by Sir Christopher Wren for Charles II's war veterans, the Chelsea Pensioners. We saw several in undress uniform, trousers and belts, but not the scarlet coats and black tricorne hats they wear on ceremonial occasions. It is a lovely building and the grounds include the old Ranelagh Gardens, a source of pleasure (and vice) in the 18th century.
Battersea Pagoda with Narrowboat, Chelsea
e found the Physic Garden didn't open until 12 noon so sat on the Chelsea Embankment and had a little rest. (Geoff had a biscuit) Over the river is Battersea Park, and directly opposite where we sat was an interesting pagoda of some kind, with a gilded figure in it.(Buddha or someone). We saw two narrowboats come down the river, looking rather insignificant in the immensity of the Thames, but coming quite fast.
e had lunch in a park by the river near Cheyne Walk, artists' and intellectuals' mecca. (After Mac had walked for miles looking for a sandwich bar) We saw many houses with blue plaques on them, including George Eliot.
he Chelsea Physic Garden was established in the 17th century to train medical students in herbal remedies, the only ones available at the time. It still has large plantings of medicinal plants of all kinds, which are harvested for large drug firms, even today. We joined a tour, but the volunteer guide was not very good, we could hardly hear her and she really didn't communicate much enthusiasm. There was a good photographic exhibition of medicinal herbs, which we also looked at, bought Geoff a book on "Magic Plants" and caught the bus back to Victoria and home. We are going to the theatre tonight, but are already bushed.
he Berjaya Eden Park Hotel has been a bit of a disappointment, mainly caused by lack of air conditioning and airlessness, but the beds are comfortable enough, the shower is good and the included Continental breakfast is more than good. We are now going to pack the bags and get ready to go, before the theatre.
Programme Cover, "Complete Works of Shakespeare"
e thoroughly enjoyed the performance - three young and irreverent Americans performing the "Complete Works of Shakespeare (!)" in under two hours. It was hilarious! They involved the audience in the fun and were so enthusiastic and energetic - Titus Andronicus as a Cooking Show, Othello as a rap dance, all the histories as an American football game and the whole second half was Hamlet. They involved the whole audience in a group therapy role playing of Ophelia's "sub-text", her id, her ego and her superego battling it out. It was so funny.
o we came full circle from the Globe Theatre to Shakespeare as it was meant to be- not some highbrow, reverent, hushed and churchlike atmosphere, but loud, fast and bawdy. The groundlings would have loved it.
So back to the hotel for our last night.
Back to Top
Back to Contents
Back to Previous Page
Forward to Next
