Travelling North - Part One - Northumbria
7th October, 2000
8th October, 2000
9th October, 2000
10th October, 2000
11th October, 2000
12th October, 2000
13th October, 2000
Saturday, 7th October, 2000
The Living Room, Riverview Cottage, Corbridge
t rained today, all the way from Lochearnhead, where we parted from Pam and Lawrie very amiably, to Corbridge, where we arrived at about 3.p.m. We picked our way through the thronged and narrow streets of historic Corbridge, trying to find the cottage. We found the Market Square, and actually got a parking space but could not identify the cottage. We only had the address " Riverview" Market Square. Geoff finally got on to the Lonsdales (the landlords) by phone and we discovered that the house was visible from where we were parked and they came out to show us.
View over the Tyne from our Terrace
he cottage is marvellous, an 18th century cottage, renovated in the 1930's, so it is fairly idiosyncratic. The kitchen, which includes microwave and washing machine, is off the hall, then there are four steps down to the lounge, with a view of the river Tyne and an open air terrace (!)
Our Bedroom, Riverview Cottage, Corbridge
here is a staircase up to the first bedroom on the landing (Geoff's) a twin bedroom with low beams and wide window seats looking over the river, then three steps up to the bathroom and our bedroom, which overlooks the Market Square. There is a fortified vicarage next to the Saxon church just across the square and a Roman site half a mile away. It seems very comfortable so far, I just hope the rain stops tomorrow.
here is a major Safeways supermarket six miles away in Hexham, but there seems to be a fair range of shops here. Since this is our last week of self-catering we intend to eat everything up, if possible, so won't be buying lots of food.
Sunday, 8th October, 2000
Vicars Peel, Market Square, Corbridge
e slept a bit late and awoke to sunshine! After breakfast we went off to walk around Corbridge, which is a lovely little historic town with very little parking space. The church is 7th Century, but mostly from about 13th Century. Next to it is Vicar's Peel, a fortified vicarage from 16th Century. Being on the Borders, Corbridge copped a lot from the Scots, having been burned by Willie Wallace, Robert the Bruce and King David I. Also by the English king Edward I and King John. It was sort of in the middle. So I suppose fortifying the vicarage made sense.
Houses near the Bridge, Corbridge
e walked down the steep steps of the Barclay Garden to the river and walked along the bank of the Tyne till we reached the bridge, built in the 1600's and the only bridge on the Tyne to survive massive flooding in the 1700's.
Ruins of Corstopitum, Corbridge Roman Site
fter morning tea at home, we drove to the Corbridge Roman site, or Corstopitum. This was very interesting; they have excavated only a corner of the site of this garrison town, but there are extensive remains. The museum is particularly interesting and English Heritage has produced an audio tour handset, which explains a lot more than the info boards.
Ruins of Corstopitum, Corbridge Roman Site
e came back to town for lunch and found parking almost impossible, even our space outside the house was filled, but we found one eventually and had lunch.
Geoff in Manorial Style, Aydon Castle
hen we drove off to Aydon Castle, another English Heritage site. Up until quite recently this 13th Century fortified manor house was used as a farm house, and the farm is still there opposite, probably with a more comfortable modern house. It is a very interesting place, not really a ruin, except for the walls, and has a lot of the original features, like garderobes, surviving.
Courtyard, Aydon Castle
t would have been quite a small castle, more like a family home, not your Blair or Stirling. They had a picnic area in the apple orchard and a picturesque leafy site above the rushing Cor Burn. Very interesting.
ame home and our spot was vacant. I have just had a shower and washed my hair. The sun is pouring into our little sitting room, so I hope it dries well.
Monday, 9th October, 2000
oday was a bit of a washout, as far as our plans went. The day dawned fine and sunny so we decided to try for the furthest of our planned expeditions, Lindisfarne, the Holy Island. We were going well on the A1 when I spotted a sign towards the Northumberland Coastal Route, marked with castles, so I suggested we take it, because we had to get to the coast, anyway
Bamborough Castle, Northumbrian Coastal Trail
his was something of a mistake, because the route was much slower than the A1, curling around and through every small town and village that the A1 bypasses. However, we passed massive Warkworth Castle and marked it down for another time (and we would not have wanted to miss it) and Bamborough Castle, even more massive, and privately owned and renovated as well.
ll in all, with morning tea, it was midday before we got to the Holy Island Causeway and the tide was coming in, danger period was 11.35 onward. It didn't turn again until 3.30 so we were stuck. You can't use the causeway when the tide is in and there is no other way to get there.
o we went off across country to fill in time with lunch and some other site seeing. We got lunch in a tiny cafe in the back of a general store and the lady there told us that torrential rain was forecast. We went on towards Etal Castle, an English Heritage site, but before we reached it we arrived at Heatherslaw Mill and Light Railway. We decided to ride to Etal Castle on the little train, pulled by a mini steam engine. This was fun, but by the time we reached Etal it was raining.
Gatehouse, Etal Castle Ruins, Northumbria
e went round its museum, guided by an audio tape and head set, then went out to the remains of Etal Castle. We got soaked, as the rain was now falling heavily but it was very interesting and the tape was good.
e caught the train back to Heatherslaw and went on to the mill. We didn't go over it but had afternoon tea in the Granary Cafe, after which we returned to the Holy Island Causeway to make a note of the tides for the rest of the week, in case we can get back. I would like to, also Warkworth. If we can get there early enough we may be able to do both.
ome, for an Italian meal at a local restaurant.
Tuesday 10th October, 2000
Grave Markers, Vindolanda, Hadrian's Wall
ur luck seems to have run out, as far as the weather is concerned. Under heavy skies this morning we headed off to find the Roman Wall, Hadrian's, of course. Actually, there were only a few scuds of rain, luckily, but it was very soggy underfoot. Passing Chesters, and Housesteads, which Mac and I, at least, have seen before, we went to Vindolanda.
Reconstructed Temple to the Water Nymphs, Vindolanda
his is (or was) a fort and town, similar to Corbridge and on the same Roman road to Carlisle, which is still being excavated. There is a large amount of authentic stonework to wander around, but what makes it more unique is the reconstructions and displays they have put together.
Reconstructed Milecastle, Vindolanda
hey have reconstructed a portion of the wall with a milecastle or turret. It really gives you some idea of what the wall was like. Twenty feet high. There are only remnants of the wall left and none are that high. To think of something like that crossing the entire country with milecastles every mile and forts every so often is incredible.
Reconstructed Stone Milecastle, Vindolanda
hey have also reconstructed a small temple, a shop and a typical home kitchen, which give a very interesting slice of life. We shared the site with two coach loads of primary school kids, and they seemed to be enjoying it too. It's certainly a good way of learning about the people, not just the dates and battles of history.
Geoff on Hadrian's Wall,Birdoswald, Northumbria
fter lunch at Haltwhistle we went on to Birdoswald, where there is a fort, milecastle and study centre. Mac and Geoff walked off along the wall to the next milecastle and back but I stayed in the car.
e came home early to do some washing. About the only convenience Corbridge doesn't have is a laundrette, but we have a washer and a dryer. Corbridge is a cute little town, the roads are narrow and parking a real hassle, but it has banks with autotellers, two good restaurants apart from several pubs and tea rooms, a supermarket, bakery, butcher, fruit and veg and a wineshop, all in walking distance. The most convenient location we've had, and just as quaint and cosy a cottage!
Lindisfarne Priory Ruins, Holy Island, Northumbria
p early today, and out in the misty rain to head north again to Lindisfarne. It was streaky weather again, raining on and off and trying to clear. We got to Lindisfarne about 10.15, the tide was supposed to come in at 12.30 so we crossed the Causeway and went to look at the museum and remains of the Priory.
Lindisfarne Priory Ruins, Holy Island, by Geoff
he Museum was excellent, even some incised stones with Celtic patterns, real ones, not reproductions. The Priory ruins were evocative and beautiful and we were able to explore them without getting too wet. It was very muddy underfoot, though.
Lindisfarne Priory Ruins, Holy Island, Northumbria
fter beating the tide back over the causeway, we headed down to Warkworth. We had lunch in the quaint and cosy Greenhouse Restaurant in the market square. Lunch was delicious, a "Mediterranean Melt" like a pizza on olive ciabatta bread. Absolutely enormous, but delicious.
Gatehouse, Warkworth Castle, Northumbria
hen we went on through the rain to explore fantastic Warkworth Castle, which absolutely dominates the surrounding area. This was one of the seats of the powerful Percy family of Hotspur fame, the Dukes of Northumberland. We are by now, castle connoisseurs, having seen so many of them up the length and breadth of Britain, and this is definitely one of the best, certainly the best of the ruins.
The Keep, Warkworth Castle, Northumbria
he keep is unique, having three floors, mostly intact except for the roof, and it is marvellous. There was even shelter from the rain, where these things seldom have any. We were all very keen on it. It was used in scenes from the film "Elizabeth", but the custodian was a bit dubious about the film, thinking they stressed the intrigue, rather than the history. Still, it was great, and the weather cleared as we drove home along little B roads, rather than the A1, and it did not seem to take so long, either.
Thursday, 12th October, 2000
Transport, Beamish Museum Style, Durham
oday dawned sunny and bright, so even after sleeping in a bit, we headed off to Beamish, the terrific open air museum in Durham. Mac and I went there last time but it was new to Geoff, and there were some new exhibitions to us as well.
"Victorian" Schoolchildren catch the Tram, Beamish, Durham
here was a coach load of school kids in Victorian costume with teachers ditto who had come for a prebooked Victorian school experience. I'll bet they are glad they live today. I know I am.
Victorian Fun Fair, Beamish Museum, Durham
hen we explored the miner's cottages I was pretty sure I would be able to handle the coal fired stove, but it was the lack of lighting which would have been very depressing. Even in the manor house, one of the new exhibits, they only had candles and it was really dingy. Thank God for electric light!
The Co-Op, Beamish Town
e explored the mine and village (there was a black and white cat there which came to Mac and allowed itself to be patted), the school and Methodist church, then went on down towards the town and railway station. We went through the various houses and shops in the town, the sweet shop smelled marvellous, and the Co-Op, where a young lady clerk explained the Co-Op system to me.
e had lunch in the Dainty Dinah Tea Rooms and then walked on to Pockerley Manor. This was quite interesting but looked as though it would have been very crowded. All the servants slept together - men in one room, women in another, but generally in one bed!
1825 Stevenson Locomotive Waggonway, Beamish
nother new exhibit, which they hope to have enough money to keep on developing is the 1825 Stevenson Locomotive Waggonway. We had a ride, pulled by the steam engine (they told us it was only 25 years old, built by apprentices at a cost of fourteen pounds. Seems quite remarkable.)
ll in all it was a good day, fine up until the end and then it really only rained as we were leaving. We all enjoyed it, though Geoff and I agree we should be fitter. We are a bit tired.
e are going to try the Tandoori Restaurant tonight.
Friday, 13th October, 2000
nother sunny, bright morning belied the dreadful reports of the flooding in Kent and Sussex. They have had the wettest September on record and October is shaping the same way. The floodwater is more than ten feet deep in some coastal areas and the lifeboat crews are turning inland to help the beleaguered fire and emergency services. Last night the fire control centre was flooded out. Hundreds have had to be evacuated and here we are picnicking in the sun.
Kielder Water, Northumbria
e went to Kielder Water, a man made lake, (dam) which is the biggest such in Europe. It certainly is impressive and we went on an hour long cruise around it. Unfortunately, Mac was suffering badly from indigestion (I hope) following our really delicious Indian meal last night. He was in such pain that he broke out into hot and cold perspiration and could not even think of lunch. Luckily, on the way home the obstruction shifted and he is feeling somewhat better now.
his is our last night in dear little Corbridge. I am becoming very fond of the town, and the house scores highly too. I really feel I could live here, Corbridge has everything you need and a railway station so you can get out if necessary. Parking is a hassle but I imagine residents get permits. Of course, I am seeing it at its best, it is pretty far north and probably gets snow in winter. However, as a summer residence I think I would enjoy more time here.
omorrow we head for the Lakes District and our last week. Next Friday night it's back on the plane. Hey ho!
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