Scotland Part One - Argyll
Saturday 17th April, 2010
Sunday 18th April, 2010
Monday 19th April, 2010
Tuesday 20th April, 2010
Wednesday 21st April, 2010
Thursday 22nd April, 2010
Friday 23rd April, 2010
Saturday 17th April, 2010
Ford Mondeo Station Wagon from Hertz
p early to breakfast and cab to the Hertz depot downtown in Picardy Place, where we picked up our Ford Mondeo wagon. It was a very comfortable, roomy vehicle and suited us well for the whole trip.
Edinburgh is a complete shemozzle, half the roads are being dug up. They are putting in a tramway system, but our landlord told us it is just an excuse to dig up everything! There was a handmade sign in an upper window near Picardy Place which said "SHUT UP! No Wonder Edinburgh has such a high rate of suicide!"
We had quite a lot of difficulty exiting the city due to all the diversions but eventually managed it.
Abbey Ruins, Culross
e stopped for a short look at Culross, an historic village with some old National Trust Buildings, very picturesque but bitterly cold, then went on, arriving outside Stirling at about lunchtime.
Geoff and Mac at Culross
e did a large shop at a Sainsburys Super Store, had lunch at McDonalds next door, then headed west through gorgeous scenery, mountains, lochs, forests, through the pass of Rest and be Thankful until we reached Loch Fyne.
We went around the top of the loch to Inveraray, where we picked up some perishables and telephoned our landlord to tell them we were running late.
This was not as straightforward as it sounds because the mobile phone coverage in the more remote areas of Scotland (ie outside large city centres) is poor, a situation which was a constant irritation to Geoff.
Lounge with a View, Strachur
e headed back to Strachur on the other side of the loch and eventually reached Tigh an Uillt, our holiday cottage. Jackie Smith, (our landlady) was replanting roses in the garden as we turned into the drive (avoiding the little burn running down the side). Jackie and her husband Bruce were very welcoming and showed us all over with obvious pride in their cottage. And it is lovely! The lounge and Geoff's bedroom have uninterrupted views over the loch, our bedroom has an ensuite and there is also a full bathroom for Geoff.
The immaculately equipped kitchen, Strachur
he kitchen has a ceramic hob, wall oven and grill, microwave, dishwasher, fridge and freezer and a washing machine. There is a tumble dryer in the porch at the back. TV, DVD, etc. everything you could ever want. The view over the loch towards Inveraray is magical, Bruce said there were seals.
It is, or seems, quite remote but there are a couple of good restaurants and pubs around and lots to see.
The weather was a bit iffy today, our first spots of rain. I hope it clears itself up tomorrow.
Sunday 18th April, 2010
oke up about 0700, breakfasted and showered (not a very strong shower but I guess it will do). While we were having breakfast I noticed a brown Persian faced cat walk across the back yard. It looked horrified to see us and scarpered quickly. Don't know where it belongs but it does look rather scruffy.
Auchindrain Historic Township
hen we were ready we hit the trail for Auchindrain Historic Village, about six miles from Inveraray. This was quite interesting - an almost unique example of a township from two centuries ago which had neither been abandoned (as in the clearances) nor modernised.
Thatched Cottage, Auchindrain
he township consisted of several family groups who were "tenants in common" of the Duke of Argyll and paid him rent in money and kind while working individual strips of the land. It looked a very hard life and whoever talks about the "good old days" is only thinking of the Duke's life, not that of his tenants.
e had morning tea here before we started exploring and it was 1230 or so before we left. We drove on towards the local county town of Lochgilphead and stopped for lunch at a pub called the Lochgair Hotel. We were the only ones there but we had cider (draught Strongbow) and a very good lunch. Mac and I had chicken and leek pie while Geoff had scampi and chips. Both excellent. Mac had his favourite sticky toffee pud, Geoff had apple crumble with custard, cream and icecream! I contented myself with one scoop of choc mint ice cream. Quite enough!
e drove on to Lochgilphead but did not find it very interesting, perhaps it closes on Sundays. Back to Inveraray, where we picked up some more milk, bread and soap. Then home to lie down.
Monday 19th April, 2010
Cairn and Burial Slab, Kilmartin Glen
nother late start although we got up at 0730. We headed off along the becoming well-worn trail across Lochfynehead, through Inveraray and down to Lochgilphead, heading for Kilmartin Glen.
This is an amazingly full archaeological area, with large numbers of cairns, stone circles, standing stones and hillforts still to be seen, although there is evidence of there having been many more which have been recycled by the descendants of the builders (one assumes) and turned into farm buildings, dry stone walls and of course, ploughed fields. From a purely historic and archaeological point of view this may seem like vandalism, but the farmers and other people can't eat stones, however significant. Much the same has happened along Hadrian's Wall, although that is modern stuff in comparison with Kilmartin.
Inside the Cairn, Kilmartin
e went through their excellent museum, one of the best I've seen of its kind; looking out a window you can actually see the cairn they are describing. We had soup and sandwiches in the café and then went out to see some of the stones.
Spiral Engraved Stone at Kilmartin Glen
e parked near Temple Wood and then walked across a field where there was a group of stones, in three areas. Then down to Temple Wood where there were two stone circles around a cairn with a burial cist in the centre. They were really interesting. We have nothing so old in Australia (except the Aboriginal rock paintings, which are very old, about 50,000 years, but which are their culture and history, not ours.) We went on to view a chambered cairn in another field. Mac and Geoff clambered up to peer inside, but I have more respect for my ankles and knees.
Crinan Canal Lock
fter Kilmartin we drove to Crinan which is the start of the Crinan Canal. There are sea-locks opening on to the Sound of Jura, then on to the Canal, which runs about ten scenic miles with a large number of locks, to finish at Ardrishaig on Loch Fyne which also opens on to the sea at the Kyles of Bute.
Crinan Harbour
e saw quite a large Dutch cruiser come through the sea lock and out the Canal lock and start motoring through. We passed her as we drove along beside the Canal on the way to Lochgilphead and home.
t has been a wonderful day. Sunny, blue skies and warm enough just for a fleece over my T-shirt. A perfect Spring day. Long may it last!
Tuesday 20th April, 2010
his country is weird! As far as weather goes anyway. After our lovely day yesterday last night was wild with a howling gale and rain. When we awoke this morning the blue skies were back but as we drove along the loch to Inveraray we saw that the hills all had new caps of snow! The wind was right off the snow and very cold. Someone told us that tomorrow's forecast is for -2 deg! Sounds like a good rest day with a fire. Inside the cottage the central heating radiators keep it beautifully warm, but outside it is arctic.
Loch Fyne from Inveraray
e decided only to go as far as Inveraray today because Mac is not well. He says his stomach is uncomfortable but last night I am sure he was feverish - he was so hot - I gave him some aspirin and when I went to bed he was clammy. He hasn't been hot today but complaining of cold shivers. I really don't know what to do for the best but I thought it better we didn't do too much today.
Main Street, Inveraray
o we drove to Inveraray, parked, had morning tea in a lovely old-fashioned teashop with a fire burning merrily, then explored. Inveraray is a charming little planned town. It has character and interesting buildings including the jail, the church bell tower and the lovely whitewashed shops and pubs along the main street. There is a ship museum, craft studios, lots of cafes, a small supermarket, a butcher and deli and a pub established before Captain Cook blundered into Australia. The people are friendly, if not effusive and altogether it could not be more of a contrast with the dreary, depressed feeling given by the county town, Lochgilphead.
Entrance to Inveraray Castle
hen we had seen enough and I had bought a local specialist soap for Anne and Geoff had bought some more thermal gloves we went to the Castle. Inveraray Castle is the seat of the Dukes of Argyll, head of Clan Campbell. The current incumbent is quite young, he and his duchess were only married in 2002. The castle is impressive, full of classic pictures, tapestries and armaments. One of the turrets contains a large collection of Crown Derby and Worcester china - very Antiques Roadshow! Geoff bought me the guide book so I will be interested in reading that. I am close to the end of my second book, unfortunately.
t was an interesting day, and if only Mac was feeling better I would be much happier.
Geoff had the luck to see a red squirrel along the loch this morning and this evening he and Mac went for a walk and met a deer in the woods near the road as they were walking to the local petrol station and shop! I have not seen anything but birds, robins, tits, gulls and shags.
Wednesday 21st April, 2010
ell, it certainly was not -2 deg today! It has been another lovely sunny day, warm out of the wind, brilliant blue skies.
Mac said he was feeling much better and it does seem a shame not to enjoy fine weather so we set off as early as possible (0930!) for the Mull of Kintyre. This was our longest trip yet, about 200 miles each way. We took the well-known road through Inveraray and Lochgilphead, then branched off into pastures new. Through Ardrishaig, another charming town and the end (or start) of the Crinan Canal, through Tarbert and many little flyspots to Campbeltown. This is the main town of the Kintyre Peninsula and had a lot to recommend it. Lots of services and amenities.
We asked at the Tourist Information Centre for directions to the Mull of Kintyre and got quite concise directions and another OS map. The TIO had copies of a book which I had found in our cottage, called "Ma Broon's But and Ben Recipe Book". It is similar in style to those Dragonology books, full of stuck in papers, pictures, handwritten recipes splashed with gravy etc. like a scrap book. I loved it when I saw it here so I bought a copy. Our luggage gets heavier day by day.
As Close as we could get, Mull of Kintyre
e bought some takeaway and went off to find the famous Mull of Kintyre , subject of the song by Paul McCartney. The road took us up some precipitous sections, single lane with passing places. It was quite hairy and I am sure Mr. Hertz would not have been pleased with the treatment of his nice new Ford Mondeo Wagon.
We eventually came to the end of the road. It actually did go on but with no public vehicle access to the Lighthouse it led to. We had lunch looking down on the Mull while Geoff played the song on his i-Phone thing.
hen we headed back. Mac is bad again, it was a long drive. About every twenty miles he had to find a toilet or disappear into the woods. He is very hot again and his breathing very fast. He hasn't eaten a proper meal since Sunday.
I don't know what to do!
I am getting so worried! He is trying to say he is alright but it is so obvious that he isn't.
Definitely a rest day tomorrow.
Thursday 22nd April, 2010
oday we found the Medical Practice in Strachur, thanks to the file of local amenities in the cottage. We were there when it opened and were lucky enough to be slotted in between appointments. A shorter wait than at Blaxland even with an appointment! The doctor diagnosed a bladder infection, took a urine sample which proved the diagnosis on appearance alone (dark and cloudy) and prescribed antibiotics. These were dispensed on site and the whole thing cost us nothing because of the reciprocal agreement with Medicare. The doc thinks the antibiotics should have him feeling better by Saturday - I hope he is right.
t is raining today after three lovely days. We have seen the four main things we came here for so two days R and R won't go amiss.
I put on a small load of cottons, washed and dried them, so just have a small load of shirts to go.
Geoff and I played a game of Scrabble and watched the rain while Mac slept, then Geoff went down to the local takeaway cum teashop cum general store cum post office for absolutely sublime fish and chips for lunch, although Mac contented himself with a cup of tea and a slice of toast. Hopefully the antibiotics will fix him soon.
Friday 23rd April, 2010
leanup day today. Luckily Mac seems quite a lot better, so hopefully it will continue.
Red Squirrel at Strachur (by Geoff)
e have a bird feeder in a tree visible from our kitchen window. All sorts of little birds peck at the peanuts it is filled with. Mac identified bluetits and I identified bullfinches. We have refilled the bird feeder twice, even buying another bag of nuts. This morning, just after Mac refilled it, a red squirrel came to nibble at it. The birds weren't too happy about it but they left him to it. He does not have the mouth shape to get into the mesh feeder so Geoff left a handful of nuts beside the burn for him. I hope he realises it and the birds don't beat him to it.
Red Squirrel at Strachur (by Geoff)
ed squirrels are very much an endangered species in Britain. They are the native squirrel but are being shut out by the imported grey squirrels which are bigger and more aggressive. Scotland is one of the few places red squirrels still inhabit and it was great to see one.
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