Cumbria - The Lakes District
Saturday 1st May, 2010
Sunday 2nd May, 2010
Monday 3rd May, 2010
Tuesday 4th May, 2010
Wednesday 5th May, 2010
Thursday 6th May, 2010
Friday 7th May, 2010
Saturday 1st May, 2010
e took our leave of our host, Jonathon, on a beautiful sunny morning and headed off for the A road to Carlisle and the border. By the time we hit the M6 it was pouring rain but it seemed to alternate rain and shine until we reached the Lakes.
e lucked a parking place in the middle of Ambleside and had a late lunch in "The Priest's Hole" Restaurant, an ancient building with uneven and creaking floors, the meal was good but pricy, then we found a little Co-0p to augment our supplies with some fresh meat etc. (We found afterwards that we should have obtained a parking disc from a local shop and displayed it while parked, free but limiting the time) but luckily did not get booked.
Mac in the Kitchen, Mill Brow Cottage
hen we headed for our next cottage, Mill Brow Cottage, created out of an old barn at Mill Brow Farm, about two and a half miles from Ambleside.
This is a lovely cottage, thick stone walls with heavy ceiling beams, an open fire had been lit in the grate and Geoff is over the moon because it has free WiFi. We will be able to check our email. The kitchen has everything - frig/freezer, washing machine, dishwasher, coffee machine, microwave, etc.etc.etc! There is even a dryer in the boiler room a step or two away. The lounge has a comfortable three piece suite, a nest of tables and SkyTV. Lots of books and games.
Welcoming Fire at Mill Brow Cottage
he fire is great, but not really necessary as there is central heating throughout. My only reservation so far is that the bed is a bit hard. Much firmer than the last two. Hope I can cope.
Sunday 2nd May, 2010
e awoke to a fine and sunny day and, although clouds started rolling over in the afternoon, it was dry all day.
We decided to go to Ravenglass and ride the miniature Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway so we headed off through gorgeous mountain scenery with glimpses of lakes, through Coniston and Broughton in Furness. We went past Muncaster Castle which was buzzing with cars and people (it is Bank Holiday weekend) and would have liked to go there afterwards but by the time we had had lunch, trained up to Dalegarth and trained back it was getting a bit late, so we thought we would do it later in the week. Same for Hard Knott Fort, on top of the intimidating Hard Knott and Wrynose Passes.
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway
he train to Dalegarth was a very pleasant trip. The train seemed much more comfortable than the last time we did it on the rainy trip in 1992.
And larger windows to view the passing scene. Mac started to fall asleep on the way back and I also felt drowsy but whiled away the time composing an ode to what I feel is a most discriminated against wildflower, the dandelion.
Just as yellow as the more showy daffodils and brighter than the pale self effacing primroses and you can even eat bits of it (if you are desperate).
Here then is my
Ode to a Dandelion
How doth the little dandelion
Its rugged life pursue
They stubbornly refuse to die
Whate'er the gardeners do.
The steadfast dandelion I sing
Be-spangling all the verges
While grumbling gard'ners it inspires
To vile destructive urges.
All hail the rugged dandelion
With cheerful yellow flowers
And later with its puffball clocks
It counts the playful hours.
Wordsworth eat your heart out!
e had an easy run back to Skelwith Bridge. It has been a lovely day, but after the long weekend I fully intend to let myself be driven up Hard Knott Pass for the Roman fort.
Monday 3rd May, 2010
s the Bank Holiday weekend finished today we expected a lot of traffic, especially in the more popular places, so we decided to just have a day of scenery and leave "tourist" areas until after the crowds have gone.
Some of the Group on the Honister Mine Tour
ccordingly we headed through Keswick and Grasmere and along tiny roads beside Thirlmere, and headed for Seatoller and Honister Pass. We went up one side of the Pass and decided to call in at the Honister Slate Mine on the summit. We signed on for a tour of the mine but when the guide told us there were seventy steps down to the last cavern I started to yeep! She said I could leave the tour early and wait for them outside so that's what I decided to do. The tour was quite interesting, like the lead mine it showed the dreadful conditions the early miners worked in and took for granted as the norm. The caverns were large and completely man made, hollowed out in the search for slate. They used it entirely for roofing at first, but the bottom fell out of that market with the advent of cement tiles in the 50s.
Honister Pass
he mine lay closed until, fourteen years ago, it was bought and reopened by a young entrepreneur who has started using slate for all kinds of uses as well as tiles, and fashion has assisted him to make a go of it. It was quite interesting even if I didn't do the lot. We had a light lunch here then headed down the other side of the pass, towards Buttermere and Crummock Water. The scenery was truly awesome (that much overused word). I only wished we could occasionally stop and gaze and take photos, but the roads are very narrow and the parking spots are
always
full.
till, it was lovely, although the weather appears to be clouding over again. I hope we haven't had the best yet because we want to do a lake cruise tomorrow.
e turned off to Cockermouth, a large, more commercial town, and finally discovered where Lakeland people do their shopping! Sainsburys, Aldi and another large supermarket. We did some shopping and came home, tired, but not a bad day.
Tuesday 4th May, 2010
Ambleside Waterhead
oday dawned a little mistily but not wet, so we decided to buy Freedom Passes + train on the Windermere Cruises. Therefore we headed off early for Ambleside Pier. Compared with the bustling Bank Holiday crowds, it was almost deserted and we parked in the Pay and Display provided by the National Parks Service. It cost six pounds 50 for the day and was just a step from the Pier. When we got there we discovered all day FREE parking for Boat customers! Mac was not amused.
We bought the Freedom Pass which gives all day cruising on all the routes and added the Lakeside - Haverthwaite Railway to it.
Early Morning at Ambleside Pier
ur first cruise was on an electric launch from Ambleside to Bowness (next to Windermere and merging with it). It was delightful. The lake was mirror still and the electric launch did not disturb it much. There were lovely reflections.
Steamer "Teal" on Windermere
hen we got to Bowness we had an hour's wait for the steamer to Lakeside, the other end of the Lake. This, the Teal, was a much larger vessel with large engines which disturbed the calm. We sat outside and it was cold but not very windy. I am getting very frustrated with my new glasses and their "transitions" lenses. Inside they are fine, but get me out in the open, even if it is not very bright and they go black, washing out all colour and detail and giving me the impression that it is cloudy and dull to menacing, so I don't bother to take photos. Then I take them off and all is revealed again. It is a real nuisance. I am going to get a new pair without the transitions when I get home and maybe use these as sunglasses.
Train on the Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway
nyway, when we reached Lakeside we joined the steam train of the Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway. This used to be part of the London, Midlands and Scotland main line but it is not any more. We had a short ride from Lakeside to Haverthwaite and had lunch in the Station Refreshment Room. Then we trained back, after a good look around at the engine sheds etc. and caught another steamer all the way back to Ambleside with a stop at Bowness.
t has been a lovely day, sunny in spots, and we really enjoyed being on the water.
Wednesday 5th May, 2010
e started out today to cross a couple of very high and narrow passes, Wrynose and Hard Knott. They are very precipitous but there are many passing places and you can see vehicles approaching for quite some way ahead. So it wasn't too bad. We stopped at the top of Hard Knott to see if we could discover the remains of Hard Knott Roman fort. We saw the plaque about it and a few dressed stone walls (as opposed to the random dry stone walls that are everywhere, ) but there was not a lot to see. I slipped in the damp muddy grass up there and fell on my knees and chest which shook me up a bit, but no real harm done. (Although later my left knee developed some spectacular bruising which lasted until Wales!)
Muncaster Castle
e then proceeded another few miles, past Ravenglass to Muncaster Castle. This is a very interesting place, the family is hanging on by its bootstraps financially and has lent itself to a bit more than just the opening of the castle to the public. They have given space to the World Owl Trust, setting up of aviaries, breeding programs and study centres. The public can go through the aviaries, where there are over fifty species of owl from all over the world, from tiny pygmy varieties to very large eagle owls. There is an amazing variety of owl species and it was very interesting to see them.
The Gorge Garden at Muncaster Castle
Mac and Geoff in the gardens at Muncaster Castle
e had lunch in the Stable Block in "Creeping Kate's Kitchen" then went out to see the glorious gardens of the castle. They are probably the loveliest I have seen this trip, informal but burgeoning with all colours of rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas and many others. It was breathtaking because it was on top of and down the sides and bottom of a valley and it was wonderful and spectacular.
Geoff Meets a Barn Owl at Muncaster
e went to a "Meet the Birds" display where they flew a Barn Owl, an Eagle Owl and a "common" buzzard, which was obviously a slow learner. Its display was quite funny. Geoff had his photo taken with the Barn Owl.
hen we went into the castle. It is overcrowded with pictures, antiques and all sorts and is supposed to be haunted by so many spirits that it is always under investigation by the Psychical Research people. I was in the room supposedly haunted, but I did not catch any vibes.
Wild Herons waiting to be Fed at Muncaster
fter afternoon tea we went to see the feeding of "wild" herons in the valley. Like the "wild" dolphins of Monkey Mia they were lined up waiting for the food to be brought. There were about twenty or so herons squabbling over the food. Quite a sight.
Geoff Among the Rhododendrons, Muncaster
fter this we took a longer, easier road home. Two loads of washing tonight. We'll dry them tomorrow.
Thursday 6th May, 2010
e had a wet start today so, after drying the washing in the boiler room (where the dryer is located) we thought we would have a museum day. It was getting finer and finer as we reached the very attractive town of Keswick on Thursday Market Day. The centre of town is pedestrianised so parking on the outskirts is very competitive. The main street had stalls up its length and lanes leading off it with all kinds of specialist businesses.
e headed first for the Motor Museum, called
"Cars of the Stars"
, which displayed all kinds of vehicles as driven in all varieties of film and TV shows. Everything from KITT, of the "Nightrider" series, two different Batmobiles, Mr. Bean's Mini and the Trotter Bros. three wheel Reliant from "Only Fools and Horses". There was Fred Flintstone's car from the movie, Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, General Lee from "The Dukes of Hazzard" and Mad Max's Outback Ford Falcon. And the Munsters' Koach, among many others. They used to have a lot of James Bond cars but they have been hived off to a specialist James Bond Museum, which we saw later in the afternoon. All up it was very interesting and fun to see.
fter lunch we went to a very different sort of display called
"The Puzzling Place"
. Full of optical illusions, holograms and puzzles it was a thought-provoking display, but lots of interest and fun.
Old Delivery Van, Pencil Museum
hen we upped sticks and moved the car across town to the Cumberland Pencil Museum. This sounds so anorak but when you consider that they started making pencils here in the 1500s and exported them all over Europe, even to Michelangelo! it really is quite a thing.
We saw how pencils are made (in a video - Health and Safety won't let you see the real thing in the factory next door) and saw displays of old and new techniques for using them. The ingenious pencils issued for use of airmen during the war which contained a tiny compass and silk maps inside the hollow shells were on display too. I had heard of these and it was great to see them here.
rom here we went to the James Bond Collection and it was pretty comprehensive with many "Bondmobiles" and various other cars belonging to the baddies as well. They also had a video room which showed various Bonds in vehicle related scenes. A good chance to rest my feet which were complaining badly by now.
ome to go out for dinner. We plan to try the local Pub/Hotel, quite close.
Friday 7th May, 2010
ur last day at Mill Brow Cottage. We spent most of the morning sorting out the packing for next week because we don't want to take all the bags on the boat so we packed as much as we thought we wanted all in one bag. It takes a while to figure out what we will need for a week.
Hawkshead
nyway, once we had finished and showered etc.,we decided to go to Hawkshead for lunch. In three visits to Hawkshead this is the first time it has been fine. It was gorgeous! This tiny medieval village with its old coaching inns with arches across the street and tubs of spring flowers was quite lovely. We wandered around, snapping photos and then had lunch in a very old building next to the Methodist church, called the Minstrel's Gallery, all old beams, candles and window seats in the sun.
We answered a questionnaire posed by a group of schoolboys, numbers of whom were wandering around with clipboards, doing a project on tourism, I suspect. Hawkshead is very touristy, but lovely nevertheless.
hen we went on a lovely scenic drive around Ullswater, almost as far as Penrith, then headed back to Keswick where we had afternoon tea at Costas.
Home to clean the cottage and be ready to head off tomorrow morning. We have been so lucky with the weather - every time it rained it cleared quickly to a lovely day. Long may it last!
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