Wales Part One
Saturday 22nd May, 2010
Sunday 23rd May, 2010
Monday 24th May, 2010
Tuesday, 25th May, 2010
Wednesday 26th May, 2010
Thursday, 27th May, 2010
Friday, 28th May, 2010
Saturday 22nd May, 2010
e were packed up quite early and left our little home, heading for Wales. We more or less retraced our steps from last week, along motorways, stopping for Maccas at one of the services places. There was a horrendous hold up on the last section but that gave us a bit of help as we were running early, as usual, so it killed a bit of time.
View of the Mountains over the Main House, Plas Heulog
e did a bit of shopping in Llanfairfechan before plunging into the depths (or more accurately, the heights) behind the seaside facade. Climbing ever more precipitous tracks masquerading as roads we arrived at Plas Heulog to find a pleasant proprietor, Richard Bartlett, who showed us our little purpose built holiday cottage. It is very small, but very well-equipped, both the bedrooms have lots of storage and ensuites, much to Geoff's delight. It is very pretty and there is a laundry room with a dryer and iron to serve all four cottages.
We have the complex to ourselves this week, but next week they will all be occupied, it being another Bank Holiday.
here is a stunning view over Conwy Bay (I think) with mountains on the other side. Seems good so far. See what the fortnight brings.
Sunday 23rd May, 2010
e got up late, I did a load of washing and we pored over piles of tourist info until nearly midday. We decided to go for an exploratory drive to Porthmadog and Caernafon to find where the Welsh Highland Railway started (Caernafon) and the Blaenau Ffestiniog Railway (Porthmadog).
e stopped for lunch at a pub called Y Llangollen (the sign was a narrowboat) in the small, very Welsh village of Bethesda (we were the only English speakers there). We had a marvellous and simple roast lamb with gravy and tangy real mint sauce, roast and boiled potatoes, cabbage and peas, cauliflower and carrots all in separate dishes. Sunday lunch carvery is traditional in many pubs. Delicious.
Snowdonia, near Llanberis
ur drive took us through Snowdonia National Park by simply stunning scenery. The contrast with the flat fields of Lincolnshire could not have been more marked. I liked Lincolnshire, I really did, and I loved Louth, but there is something about mountains that uplifts my soul. The wonderful scenery distracted me from the narrow twisting road.
Porthmadog Harbour, near the Station
e skirted Betwys-y-Coed and navigated through Beddgelert to Porthmadog where we visited the station of the Welsh Highland Heritage Railway which was not the one we wanted. However, they told us that the Welsh Highland Railway had not yet completed the line to Porthmadog (although the tourist info implied that it had) so that is something to know. So we travelled through Porthmadog and found the station for the Ffestiniog Railway and got the timetables we needed.
Caernafon Castle from the Railway Station Carpark
hen on to Caernafon, a town dominated by its mighty castle. The station of the Welsh Highland Railway is just about next door to the castle so we found both. We will make a day of it, train first, castle afterwards. We will also make a day of the Blaenau Ffestiniog and go to the Slate Caverns at Blaenau Ffestiniog first as well.
e have lots of plans. Most of the castles are Welsh Heritage CADW, and our English Heritage cards get us in for nothing.
We did some shopping and returned to Llanfairfechan (the lady at the railway station pronounced it Hlanvirevecharn) and relaxed in the warm afternoon sun. The weather is still glorious.
Monday 24th May, 2010
hen we awoke this morning all our view had disappeared. Fog completely obscured everything in front of our hedge. We didn't know what to do because we had planned to visit the famous Victorian seaside resort of Llandudno and take the cable tramway up the Great Orme Head. We didn't think there would be much point with the fog so I did another load of washing and the guys had morning tea at home.
Beach at Llanfairfechan
ust before midday it seemed to get brighter with a touch of blue sky so we went down to find the seaside promenade of Llanfairfechan. The tide was out so the sand was visible, it must cover even the shingle when the tide comes in.
We had lunch in the "Beach Pavilion", a rather grubby café and, as the sun was getting more evident we headed off for Llandudno.
The Llandudno Tram Car
y the time we got there, and it is not that far, the sky was blue and the sun was warm as if it had never heard of fog.
e found a carpark not too far from the Tramway Station and walked up to buy the tickets. The tramway is a funicular type of thing, pulled by cables in two sections up to the top of Great Orme Head, legendary as a petrified dragon's head.
The Tram Heading for the Top
t was a cute little car which meandered up quite a steep slope, pausing at the half way point so we had to change to get to the Summit. This was much steeper and the views from all directions were spectacular.
Rosemary and Mac on top of the Great Orme
here were all sorts of activities, children's playground, mini golf, bar, shops and café where we had afternoon tea before going back down the tramway. Mac lingered at the Half Way House to see the machinery working and read all the information boards. Back home to the cottage where it is somewhat cooler, despite the sun.
View over Llandudno from the Great Orme's Head
ope tomorrow is clear, as we want to ride the Welsh Highland Railway where the views are supposed to be great. See what tomorrow brings.
Tuesday, 25th May, 2010
From the Window of the Welsh Highland Line Train
slightly less misty start to the day but we ignored it and left fairly early for Caernafon. Our first port of call was the station of the Welsh Highland Railway where we bought tickets to Beddgelert and return. The train actually goes on from Beddgelert to the Aberglasyn Pass which I would have liked to see but we decided to stop and have lunch at Beddgelert and catch the train on its way back.
From the Window of the Welsh Highland Line Train
he run was absolutely wonderful. The day had cleared to sunny and blue and the scenery was awesome (sorry). Mountains, lakes, little bouncy rivers, fields of sheep and cows, woods full of bluebells, it had everything. With the clarity of the day you didn't miss a thing.
Engine at Beddgelert Station
eddgelert is a pretty village and we had lunch at a pizza place which also had a large lunch selection of baguettes, which we chose, knowing we only had an hour before the train returned.
Mac and Geoff at Beddgelert Station
he return trip was just as good although Mac and I both got a little dozy towards the end.
Outside the Castle Walls
e got back to Caernafon at about 1445 and immediately drove off to park by the wonderful Edward I castle. We saved about fourteen pounds with our EH cards and spent the next couple of hours exploring. Mac climbed hundreds of steps and waved to me from battlements and towers but I contented myself with the lower floors and the outside, for photos.
Interior Walls Caernafon Castle
here was an excellent audio-visual display (more visual than audio) putting the castle and Edward I in the context of the times and showing the influences which went into its design.
Inside the Walls, Caernafon
here was also a display about the Princes of Wales, starting from Edward II and ending with our own Prince Charles, who looked incredibly young in his photos, but then, so did the queen, comparing that photo with her appearance at the Opening of Parliament today, reading her prepared speech of good intentions by the coalition government and trying to sound as if she believed it.
Interior Door, Caernafon Castle
ltogether, it has been a good day, and though the weather is supposed to deteriorate from now until rain on Saturday (for the Bank Holiday weekend, whacko!) I hope we can continue to find good things to occupy and entertain us.
Wednesday 26th May, 2010
till fine, although the mist is still hanging on, over the sea in the morning and the mountains in the afternoon.
oday we headed for the island of Anglesey, just off the coast and connected by two historic bridges, the ugly Victorian Britannia Bridge and the more graceful suspension bridge built by the ubiquitous Thomas Telford.
Nameboard at LlanfairPG Station
e made first for the obligatory tourist trap of LlanfairPG, where we photographed the railway name board, then went into the real tourist trap, John Pringles Weavers. They sell everything from cashmere sweaters to CDs, souvenirs to homewares. I succumbed and bought a little Celtic design pillbox and a badge with a dragon. Geoff bought two T-shirts and a cap and a box of gourmet jelly beans of all flavours.
Tourist Trap Par Excellence
At the Model Village, Anglesey
e had morning tea there before heading off to Newborough to the Model Village. This, on a much smaller scale, was similar to Cockington Green in Canberra with little buildings, shops, businesses, churches, with a little garden railway running through it. It was cute and there was a quiz to test observation which we did as we went around. But it was not as extensive as Cockington Green.
e left here and went off to try to find somewhere for lunch, which we did in a seaside town called Rhosneigr at a bar called Sullivans. Quite adequate foccacia. Then we headed for the castle at Beaumaris. Mac and I had been here before, back in 1992, but the only thing that has changed is an exhibition in one of the rooms.
Beaumaris Castle and moat
t is a very different castle from Caernafon yesterday, a completely different design. It is such a cleverly engineered castle it is a pity it was never really finished. They ran out of money and Edward I died, his heir really a bit of a dead loss as far as military matters went.
Beaumaris Castle Entrance
till, it is a very interesting castle. Hidden in the walls is a chapel that looks as though it may still be used. It is vaulted, with carvings around the walls and has an altar with a cross, and seating.
The Barbican, Beaumaris Castle
t was getting late so we headed for home. Another good day.
Thursday, 27th May, 2010
ur view was back this morning, all the mist blown away. Replaced by several levels of cloud, but we only got a few spots of rain all day.
e drove through Snowdonia, through Betwys-y-Coed and arrived at Blaenau Ffestiniog at about 10:00. We drove in to the Llechwydd Slate Caverns and booked the "Miners' Tramway Tour".
On Board the Miners Train Tour
his was really interesting, deep into the 5th level of the mine with seven levels still underneath. We rattled into the cuttings and had talks and displays about the miners' lives. Geoff's comment was that despite the terrible pay and life expectancy, the miners here had better conditions than the ones at Honister.
In the Slate Mine, Llechwedd
lechwydd is still a working slate mine but it is now open cut, not tunnelled. There was a "Victorian Village" on the site where we could change money into Victorian coppers, and a pub, a couple of shops and houses.
First Class on the Blaenau Ffestiniog Railway
hen we left here we went to the station at Blaenau Ffestiniog and treated ourselves to 1st Class tickets to Porthmadog and back. We were able to get seats in the Pullman Observation Coach, lovely plush armchairs with table service of tea, coffee and snacks. They even brought around ice-creams of which we all partook.
From the Window, Blaenau Ffestiniog Railway
he scenery was lovely, more varied and less in your face awesome than the Welsh Highland Line but a lovely run.
Terminus of the Blaenau Ffestiniog Railway, Porthmadog
here were really high embankments where you could see way down and a spiral to lose height without too much of a gradient. A lovely waterfall splashed down right beside the line.
We enjoyed the run and the return, then drove home over roads just as high with deep valleys and mountains.
onight we have booked a table at the "Split Willow", a local restaurant/reception place with a good reputation so are hoping for a nice meal.
ell, the "Split Willow" had two large functions tonight, a Rotary meeting and a Golden Anniversary, so we had a table set up in the hall, just outside the kitchen. Minor quibbles, the meals came very quickly, practically snatched out from under our forks, major quibble, no napkins and bread rolls nuked to rock hardness. Apart from that the food was nice. I felt my chicken was a bit dry, but breast often is. I thought Geoff's duck was overcooked, but we prefer that to underdone. All up, a strange night, but Geoff shouted us, which was nice, too.
Friday, 28th May, 2010
Foot of Snowdon Rail Terminus
t was clear and lovely this morning so we headed for Snowdon, the reason for the Snowdonia National Park and mecca for those whose inclinations tend to the energetic. We found an all day carpark just over the road from the Mountain Railway Terminus and went across to see if we could get a seat on the train. The trains are always full because they only send up one carriage per train. We booked tickets on the 1300 run and then had to get Geoff something to eat as he was going off into quite a strong hypo.
Thomas Bach at Llanberis Lake Railway
hen he was OK we went to the Llanberis Lake Railway where we took a dear little Tonka steam train called "Thomas Bach" around the lake.
It was a comfortable ride with some spectacular mountain and lake scenery. We bought sandwiches for lunch and ate them on a bench beside the train before arriving back at the Terminus for our trip up Snowdon.
Snowdon Mountain Railway Engine
hey shoehorn eight people into each little compartment and both lots of window seats were already occupied so we had to climb over them to sit in the middle. Geoff's view was very restricted because the guy in the window seat spent the trip holding his camera out of the window and filling all the available space. Mac and I had a better view and it was certainly spectacular - deep chasms, lakes, ridged heights, with the cloud starting to close in. The number of people walking is quite amazing and included a group of uni students in bathing suits, snorkels and flippers attempting to raise money by sponsorship. Madness!
View from Snowdon Summit
hen we got to the top it was bitterly cold so I stayed in the Visitor Centre in the warm while Mac and Geoff went on up to the Summit for panoramic views. The train stayed there for thirty minutes before returning so we got in early to snaffle the windows.
hen we got down we had hot chocolates and pastries at the Station Buffet and came home via the Co-Op for yet more groceries. Our landlord was home from a trip to Yorkshire and was trimming the hedges. From tomorrow all the other cottages will be occupied so we plan a veg weekend to establish our right to the longest parking space.
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