AT LAST AT LAST
London, Scotland and Some Canals
The Lovely Isle of Skye
Sunday 11th September 2022
Monday 12th September 2022
Tuesday 13th September 2022
Wednesday 14th September 2022
Thursday 15th September 2022
Friday 16th September 2022
Sunday 11th September, 2022
Portree Harbour
fter a leisurely start, shower and breakfast we decided to head first for Portree for a bit of an explore. We found a park near the shore walk and walked down the steps to Beaumont Terrace, right on the seawall, where we found the Craiglockart Guest House, still there. We were there in 1992 and Neil in 1990 and Mac's parents well before that. I'm willing to bet, however, that the owners we met are no longer with us, they were elderly then.
We strolled around Portree, then visited the Tourist Information Office where a helpful young woman gave us the gen on Boat Rides to Loch Coruisk. There are two firms doing the same trip, one slightly cheaper. We thought we would like to go on Tuesday and the helpful girl looked up the weather and told us Tuesday looked OK.
The Old Man of Storr
fter this we headed up the Trotternish Peninsula and soon came on the view of the Old Man of Storr. We photographed it but did not stay due to crowds of vehicles, many of which were motorhomes. Every beauty spot seems to have sprouted Pay and Displays so we went on. The scrum at the site for Kilt Rock was ridiculous!
Mouldering Ruins of Duntulm Castle
oving on we went through Staffin, looking for something open for coffee, but as it is Sunday even Columba 1400 was shut. So we went on. Via mostly one lane roads with passing places until we got to Duntulm Castle mouldering on its gale-ridden headland. We walked up to it but there is not much left and it is covered by warning signs.
Blackhouses at Museum of Island Life
e went on for a short while until we came on the old Kilmuir Cemetery, behind the Skye Museum of island Life, a village of blackhouses, also closed. The cemetery has the grave of Flora MacDonald, (she of the bonny boat) so we paid homage to her and left for Uig, where we thought we might find somewhere open for lunch, as it was now about 1330.
Grave of Flora Macdonald
othing appeared until I noticed the Hotel Uig and we stopped. It looked quite classy and I felt we might be a bit underdressed but the rest of the clientele was not much better. The hotel only did a set menu Sunday Roast dinner, two or three courses so Mac and I opted for the roast beef (with baked potatoes, parsnips, carrots, cabbage, beans, horseradish and enormous light as a feather Yorkshire puddings.) A huge plate of food, very nice too and we finished our plates. Then Mac had sticky toffee pudding and I had cheese plate with oat cakes. Very nice. At least it all means I won't have to cook tonight. Or not much, anyway.
Monday 12th September, 2022
Beach on the Isle of Raasay
fter another leisurely start we packed a picnic and headed off for the CalMac ferry to Raasay. This is a half hour journey from Sconser on Skye to a very rural and remote seeming island. Despite being so close to Skye it did seem almost like a private island, with one large house, now a hotel, and the Raasay Distillery (whisky and gin) being the only large industries, although the population is mainly crofting. The existence of a school does seem to indicate growing families there.
Raasay House Hotel
e took the one major road, one lane with passing places, and headed north via the coast. The scenery is stunning and the traffic very light, all kept to the rules about passing places. At about 1300 we stopped in the parking space belonging to a mobile phone tower and had our picnic in the car. The weather was the usual Scottish mix, blue skies, a sudden shower, rainbow and repeat!
Ruins of Brochan Castle
fter lunch we went on until we found Brochan Castle, ruins of a Macleod stronghold, which was perched on the cliffs opposite Applecross on the mainland. It was very picturesque and evocative, as all these ruins are and we enjoyed it as a very fine object for the excursion.
Ruins of Brochan Castle
Mac on the Walking Track
e retraced our steps back and found a very easy walking track through lovely woods with a cheerful little burn bridged three times in the half mile walk. It was lovely.
Raasay Hotel and Distillery
oon after that we caught the ferry back to Sconser and came home via Portree where we tried to get to the Co-Op but could not find a park. Maybe tomorrow.
Tuesday 13th September, 2022
On The Road to Elgol
e set off quite early for Elgol, starting port for the Boat Tour to Loch Coruisk, because it is rather a long way on mostly one lane roads with passing places.
The scenery along the way was breathtaking, a wonderful run. My photos really do not do it justice but I kept on taking them nevertheless!
On The (battered) Road to Elgol
t Elgol we picked up our tickets for the Misty Isle Boat Tour to Loch Coruisk from a caravan on site. Elgol is a fishing port mostly with a few houses on the shore and cows grazing on seaweed on the beach. It was superbly located with a stunning view of the Cuillins across the water.
Elgol
Macs at Elgol
he tour boat was small and very full (possibly over full) which meant the view was restricted if you wanted to take photos, which of course I did. However the scenery was superb everywhere you looked.
Scramble at Loch Coruisk
e arrived at the jetty for Loch Coruisk to find that it needed quite a scrambling walk among the rocks to get to it. Several of the passengers had rucksacks and intended to walk home, apparently there is a marked way by several rocky mountain outcrops.
Cuillins at Loch Coruisk
f it were possible it would have been a stunning walk. But a bit too much of a rock climb for my knees and feet which were already complaining but I am glad I went. The water was crystal clear and there were waterfalls and stepping stones across the water. Mac stepped over the stones and waved to me from the other side but I did not feel it was advisable with my lack of balance these days!
Loch Coruisk
owever, I was not the worst of the walkers, one woman tripped and fell and another was really making heavy weather of it and needed almost carrying.
The boat's crew, father and son, McKinnons like Betty, our landlady, were very helpful and young Seamus was very entertaining in the manner of the leader of the Bullshit Tour we went on in London with Geoff.
fter the tour we headed back to Broadford where we picked up some more groceries and came home. I did a load of washing, after trying to work out the machine, and have hung it round the lounge and kitchen. If it needs more tomorrow, we have a clothes line outside. We also have a very clever clothes airer which is electric, and we have used it as well. I would like one at home!
Wednesday 14th September, 2022
At Sligachan
oday was not really planned. After our long drive yesterday I just wanted to potter about so we thought we would visit the Aros Centre which we saw in 2000. When we got there we found the place mostly shut down and under renovation, apparently new owners are changing everything. However, there was a café so we decided to have an early lunch, then go on to visit Dunvegan Castle.
Bridges at Sligachan
e first stopped at Sligachan to look at the old three arch bridge and a few other sites and monuments. It is in an incredible landscape backed by the Cuillins. The water in the river was very low after the hot summer; I remember the bridge the first time I saw it in 1992 with water roaring through the arches in quite a dangerous manner. That year it never stopped raining!
Dunvegan Castle
hen we headed on to Dunvegan Village, where we bought Geoff some cufflinks in a craft shop. Everything was a print of the artist's landscapes, there were prints, cards, coasters, placemats, tote bags and silk scarves and jewellery, all beautiful.
Mac at Dunvegan
e went on to the Castle which we have visited several times before, but we bought tickets to the house and grounds. It is an interesting place as all these castles are and we enjoyed seeing it again.
Dunvegan Castle Water Garden
Mac's New Cap
Dunvegan Castle Walled Garden
e then walked around some of the lovely gardens and enjoyed the floral displays, then bought a couple of souvenirs and a new tweed cap for Mac in the gift shop. His old one has worn a hole and needed replacing. He has had it since Fort Augustus in 2005. I hope the new one lasts as long as the old.
Home again for coffee and biscuits. A good day, fine if not sunny.
Thursday 15th September, 2022
Armadale Castle Ruins
beautiful sunny morning today, I even had to wear my sunglasses for the first time. However, by the time we reached Portree it was spitting rain, then alternated all day. The funny thing was that there was blue sky most of the day, even when we got quite wet at Armadale.
Armadale Castle Ruins
nyway, we drove to Armadale, spiritual home of Clan Donald and went in to see it again. We were last here I think in 2000. The gardens were lovely, with spectacular views over the Sound of Sleat and some quite weird "sculptures". The ruins of the castle were as evocative as ever.
Armadale Castle Ruins
Armadale Castle Museum
e went through their really excellent museum, much more than we really wanted to know about the MacDonalds. I didn't know that Flora MacDonald of the bonny boat had emigrated to North Carolina in the 1700's. Since we saw her grave on Sunday at Kilmuir they must have brought her home.
Strange Sculptures at Armadale Castle
ost annoyingly they have closed the café they had in the Stables last time so we bought sandwiches and a cinnamon bun at a caravan outside the Stables and took them to a parking place by the sea with a spectacular view, to eat.
A pleasant day, patchwork weather, but typical, I feel. Home to some phoning for the reservations ahead. Tomorrow is our last on Skye, oh well!
Friday 16th September, 2022
The Quiraing
fter I had a very bad night, we took our time getting off this morning. We put a small load through the washing machine and packed a couple of sandwiches then headed off quite late for Uig and the narrow road across the Quiraing to Staffin.
The Quiraing
his was a great drive with a surprising amount of other traffic and a very annoying Pay and Display car park by the best view of the run. I do understand why but we do feel it is over commercialising scenery. However it was still wonderful to see.
The Quiraing
The Staffin Dinosaur Museum
hen we reached Staffin we stopped at the little Dinosaur and Fossil Museum. Apparently Skye is the Jurassic Park of Scotland and Staffin is the site of many dinosaur footprints and fossils. They had a few there, mostly casts, I think most of the real stuff is in museums in Glasgow and Edinburgh. Then we went off to the beach where many finds were ...er..found. Quite surfy today.
Pier at Staffin
hen we came back to the main road we needed toilets so called in to Columba 1400, an outreach and leadership training centre which has a café and toilets. Since we wanted to use toilets I thought we should get lunch as well, so we sat at a lovely little suntrap and enjoyed soup of the day (me) and a ham and cheese toastie (Mac).
Rainbow at Bernisdale
hen we came home to pack and I had a two hour nap to make up for my bad night. Packing now for leaving tomorrow.
There was a lovely rainbow this evening, directly opposite the cottage. A pleasant farewell.
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