THE SNOWY SOUTH
A short tour of New Zealand's South Island
Franz Josef to Queenstown
Wednesday 7th May 2025
Thursday 8th May 2025
Wednesday 7th May 2025
Boarding the Jet Boat Haast River
e awoke to a grey misty day with occasional rain, such a pity! We were headed to the Haast Pass, where we have been before, many years ago. It is still lovely, despite the weather. At about 1030 we arrived at the Haast River Safari, the Jet Boat place, where we bought our tickets and walked down the muddy track towards the river. The river was one of the many "braided" rivers, wide banks of tight packed sand, silt and stones, with a narrower stretch of actual water.
Haast River
he boat was larger than the usual wizz bang jets and had windows and a roof, making it more comfortable. We went off for an hour's run, which included stops at various beauty spots, waterfalls and lovely blue green glacial river. Our driver, a cheerful young woman, indulged us with exhilarating spins which she enjoyed as much as we did.
Turquoise Haast River
Mooring the boat midstream
e actually pulled up in the middle of the river, hard up against the ubiquitous rocky sand bar, and we all got out, walking among the stones. One of the guys took our photo by the boat and it is not bad. The group is mainly easy to get on with, a couple of single ladies, mostly couples of retirement age, and one father/daughter combo who are quite friendly.
Macs in Midstream
Lake en route to Queenstown
fter the boat we moved on until 1215 or so, when we stopped at a nice little roadhouse, quite remote, with open fires, where we had a light lunch. Mac made friends with a lovely soppy dog and had to be dragged away.
Mountaineering near Queenstown
t was quite a long run into Queenstown through road-works (from fallen boulders) and one lane bridges. The day cleared and there were wonderful panoramic lake and mountain views. We stopped for a photo on a cliff top where some intrepid members climbed the steep path for a more open view. With snowy peaks in the distance and heavy jackets, they looked like mountaineers.
Queenstown Hotel Lounge
e got into Queenstown about 1630. Our hotel is very grand, perched quite high above the town of Queenstown and on several levels. The entrance foyer was extensive with quite authentic looking open fires and comfortable sofas and armchairs.
Our Hotel Room Queenstown
o get to our room we had to go down a couple of levels, across an open garden and into one of several blocks, all with different views. We have a wonderful spacious room with a balcony overlooking Lake Wakatipu. We couldn't stop taking photos.
View from our Room
e had to find our own dinner tonight so we decided to eat here because there is a steep hike down to the town from here, and then another one up. We were given Bee cards for the local bus which stops just outside the hotel, so we will use them tomorrow on our free day. Our tour to Skippers Canyon was cancelled, so we will have to find something to occupy us tomorrow before our steamship cruise over the lake to our BBQ buffet dinner. Craig, our driver, says not to eat too much before it!
From our Hotel Balcony
Later:
e had a lovely dinner in the hotel restaurant with a free glass of wine (compensation for not getting the Tranzalpine train yesterday, which ran despite telling us and the company that it would not be running that day). We shared arancini, then I had lamb loin and polenta, mint jus and vegs. Mac had pork saltimbocca which he said was good, but a bit too much. Very nice, all up.
Then back to the room to crash. Mac is already in bed, breathing heavily. I will stay up as long as I can, sleep in tomorrow, then free until 1600. See what tomorrow brings.
PS
We sent an email and photograph to Monica for her birthday. Hope she got it.
Thursday 8th May, 2025
TSS Earnslaw at the Dock
free day in Queenstown! We slept late - 0830 - then showered and wandered down to breakfast just in time as it closed at 1000. We left just before they threw us out.
hen we gathered coats, camera and i-pad and our bus passes and found our way to the bus stop. Great timing, the bus came just as we got there. We disembarked at the waterfront, just along from the TSS Earnslaw, which we will be getting tonight. It is an attractive old veteran, chugging her way across the lake several times a day.
Macs enjoy the Million Dollar Cruise
e passed another Lake Cruise, the Million Dollar Cruise, for which I had picked up a flyer last night. It was just about to leave, so we bought tickets and hurried to the boat. The skipper was feeding the fish from the gangway when we arrived. The fish were clearly visible and huge (and so they should be if he serves them mince before every cruise!) Brown trout mostly, an introduced species.
Queenstown and Environment from Cruise
he boat was fairly small, but so was the group of passengers, with some kids in family groups and or just couples like us. It was a very pleasant trip along an inlet of the lake with quite shallow water. We saw lots of little islands of willow trees, born from channel markers hammered in by someone who didn't check what kind of timber he was using. The channel markers grew and flourished but can still fulfil the same job, marking the channel.
Macs enjoy the Million Dollar Cruise from the Bow
e saw lots of very expensive real estate and hotels on the lake and it was a pleasant run, ending at a dam wall, now a bridge. The dam was originally conceived and built by two guys who thought if they dammed the river, leaving the other side dry, they could just pick up the alluvial gold without wetting their feet. Not only did this not happen, as the river has several different sources on the other side, but it also flooded Queenstown, not very popular. But the bridge is useful!
When we got there, the skipper asked if anyone wanted photos on the bow, so we did and he took some. Another passenger had taken some of us earlier so we are getting quite a collection of couples photos.
Entrance to the Botanic Gardens
hen we returned we decided to heed Craig's advice and not buy lunch especially since we had had such a late breakfast, so we went for a walk in the Queenstown Botanic Gardens, a lovely area on the other side of the lake. The entrance to the Gardens featured a carved statue of a silver fern leaf. There were some eclectic styles of public art, including a large carved prop, which was holding up a tree branch in danger of collapsing under its own weight.
Botanic Gardens, Queenstown
here were many paths, plantings, bridges and fountains. The many deciduous trees were a blaze of Autumn colour and made a lovely sight. A gardener cutting back dahlias gave me one, which I carried back and put in water in our room. There was an extensive rose garden still hanging on to the summer's bloom, but Queenstown is not too cool as yet, considering winter is coming. No snow on the mountains yet.
The Red Rose Garden
e caught the bus back and had hot chocolate and biscuits on our balcony. A rest before convening at 1600 for our steamboat ride and BBQ dinner. More later.
Later:
Innards of Earnslaw
nfortunately this evening it set in really wet - as opposed to the sprinkles on and off all day. But the old steamer was warm with steam and we enjoyed the trip to Walters Peak. I hardly saw Mac all journey as he spent it down in the engine space, watching the steam engine do its thing, and thinking of his father.
When we arrived we had a sumptuous buffet meal which included venison and abalone (we had one, not the other) Lots of choices and vegies and we filled our plates. A choice of eight desserts (I had three - all very small, honest) and some cheese and biscuits. With a glass of rose. All good.
Blending in in Queenstown
e watched the usual farm show with sheep shearing and sheep dog mustering, then headed back through the rain and home.
I hope the rain goes away overnight.
Bags and breakfast 0800.
Note:
n amusing sidelight. The jumper I was wearing all day matched one of the artworks in our room, so I blended in perfectly!
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