THE SNOWY SOUTH
A short tour of New Zealand's South Island
Dunedin to Home
Monday 12th May, 2025
Tuesday 13th May, 2025
Wednesday, 14th May, 2025
Thursday 15th May, 2025
Monday 12th May, 2025
Larnach Castle Facade
ff betimes this morning heading off down the Otago Peninsula, where we went last night, for an early (before opening time) visit to Larnach Castle. This is, of course, not really a castle, but is modelled on the style of a British baronial hall with added Australian style verandahs. (Larnach was born in Australia). He called his house "The Camp" in typical laconic style, but the locals of Dunedin gave it the ironic nick-name of The Castle.
Larnach Castle Entrance Hall
t was furnished and decorated with no expense spared, although the rooms are really quite small. The gardens were lovely, manicured and showcasing wonderful views to the harbour.
Grounds of Larnach Castle
fter our tour, during which some members climbed up the tower to the roof, including Mac but not me! we had high tea (at 1015!). Little ribbon sandwiches, scones with jam and cream and shortbread with the choice of several teas and coffee. This was held in the ballroom, quite an extensive space with an open fire at one end and was very nice. Luckily we had been warned not to have too full a breakfast, so we hadn't!
Steampunk HQ
fter Larnach Castle we headed down the coast to the Victorian gem of Oamaru. This town boomed as a port in Victorian times and the town's architecture reflects that prosperity. It has not been modernised much because the boom busted and there was no more money from the gold and shipping etc. So the Victorian precinct is still quite intact.
Blimp at Steampunk HQ
ne of the most interesting places in town is Steampunk HQ. Situated in a former grain elevator which was badly damaged by fire is an eclectic museum of Steampunk Lore and artefacts. There was an admission fee so we didn't go in, not enough time, but the outdoor exhibits included a steam train engine, all steampunked, a blimp, a steam crane with dangling bodies and all sorts of eclectic items. We wished Geoff was with us as he is into all this stuff.
More Steampunk
e walked through the precinct to an arcade which held the studio and shop of a steampunk artist who made clothes, jewellery and hats and other interesting objects. I chatted with her but did not buy anything.
New Zealand Icons
way again towards the mountains, we were trying to get to the helicopter base before the light faded, when we were held up by the iconic NZ sight of a very large flock of sheep moving paddocks with the questionable help of a couple of sheepdogs. Either they were not very well trained, or the sheep weren't (unlike the practiced veterans at the farm show the other night). The sheep flowed over the road, and just when we thought they had all crossed safely, they wheeled around and headed back to their former paddock. It was an incredible sight.
Aoraki Mt. Cook
e then moved off smartly to get the intrepid helicopter group to their base in time. The sight of Mt.Cook was amazing, clear and sharp. This seldom occurs, according to several NZ people we spoke to, mostly it is shrouded in cloud. But not today, at last we struck lucky!
Sunset at Mt. Cook
e had been seeing the snowy topped mountains for miles along the way as we headed for our second last night stop. We passed several hydro lakes along the way, their brilliant turquoise adding more colour to the scenery. We dropped six members at the base for the scenic helicopter flight, including Bev and Geoff, way older than us, but always up for everything.
Mt. Cook was getting closer and closer and finally it was right in our faces, bathed in sunset colour and breathtakingly gorgeous. We took way too many photographs, but couldn't stop.
Aoraki Mt. Cook at Sunset
he Hermitage Hotel room was spare and smart with the bed facing a large picture window directly in front of the mountains, wonderful views. More photographs! Our room is in a side wing, with a "down two levels, across a bridge style walkway and down another two floors" trek to the bar and restaurant for dinner. See how it goes.
Later:
Tuesday 13th May, 2025
Lake Pukatipu
e left the Hermitage in heavy mist which shrouded the mountain. As we drove away the mist lifted and it became a lovely day, driving through the green valley, surrounded by snow-topped peaks. Gorgeous. We had some photo stops over the Mackenzie country, passing by several of the ubiquitous turquoise lakes, then arrived at the tiny Church of the Good Shepherd at Tekapo.
Church of the Good Shepherd
here is a lot more around it than there used to be (20 years ago!) The town seems to have grown and there is somewhat more infrastructure around. New plantings of trees around the lake as well. We were not allowed to photograph inside the church this time but the view from the altar window is still stunning!
Mackenzie Country
e went on through Mackenzie Country until we reached Geraldine on the Canterbury Plains. We had ice creams, Mac saw his first cat and two working freight trains. We were getting back to civilisation!
First Cat Sighting
rriving in Christchurch, Craig took us for a tour around the city, showing us where the earthquake had struck in 2011 and some of the not yet fixed or demolished buildings, and others which had replaced the old. There is still a lot of work to be done.
Damaged Christchurch Cathedral
he Christchurch Cathedral was very badly affected by the earthquake, to the extent that the Bishop of the time wanted to demolish and start again from scratch but the hierarchy and congregation would not hear of it so they are trying to rebuild the broken bits. It is ridiculous really, it would have been better to have built a new earthquake proof one since the cathedral has been damaged extensively by earthquakes over the years since it was built Apparently they have run out of money and work has stopped. The poor old cathedral is swathed in plastic and held together with large baulks of timber and metal bars and a temporary cathedral, made of cardboard! is being used instead. We drove past the cardboard cathedral and it is quite extensive, interesting concept.
ack to the Sudima Hotel, where we started the tour, we had a last dinner with the gang and said our farewells. Some of them are leaving in the middle of the night, at about 0330. I remember we had that sort of flight home in 2002. I am glad we can sleep in tomorrow. It's all over for the tour but we have another day to play with here. Must do some walking, my feet and legs are so swollen. Probably from sitting in the bus all day - not a good idea.
Wednesday, 14th May, 2025
Christchurch Tourist Tram
ur last day in New Zealand. We slept in, then went down to breakfast, where we met the remnants of the tour and said our farewells again.
Then we took the tourist map and sallied forth to the nearest tram stop. The tourist tram wends its way around the inner city of Christchurch and you buy a daily pass which allows you to hop on and hop off wherever you like. We waited nearly half an hour before it came, then we went around the whole loop once before getting off at Cathedral Square where we saw the poor damaged Cathedral.
Punts at the Antigua Boathouse
ext we wandered down to the river, Avon of course! taking the riverside path towards the Botanic Gardens but then we found the old Antigua Boathouse, which offers punting trips up the river for half an hour. So we booked for 1300 and went next door for lunch at the boat house café. Very nice, chicken and capsicum quiches and coffee. Then back to the punt.
Punting down the Avon
nowing (I had told them) that I had mobility issues, they kindly put a higher seat in the rear of the punt just in front of the puntsman. This made it far easier to get on and off and a cosy rug also helped.
It was a pleasant punt, the sun came out and the park we floated through was lovely. We really enjoyed it.
Punting down the Avon
Christchurch City Hall
hen we had finished we took another tram a few stops to Quake City, a museum dedicated to the 2011 earthquake in particular, although giving space to earlier ones as well. These truly are the Shaky Isles. There are many open spaces in the city which were once buildings, and several major sites, like the Cathedral, still in their damaged state. There are many new modern buildings, which are now legally bound to no higher than six stories. Anything higher has either survived the quake or was built to earthquake proof standards.
One of the most spectacular of the new buildings is the City Hall, long and low and very modernistic.
At Quake City
t was a bit disquieting to see a video of the Grand Chancellor Hotel, where we stayed in 2002 being demolished after half had been destroyed. Funnily enough, there are several historic buildings in Christchurch which have survived several quakes. They are built of wood. Apparently the architect for the Cathedral, back in the day, wanted to build it in wood but the bishop of the day wanted English style stone ostentation. He would have done better with wood.
nyway, we walked home, then went out for dinner at a nice Asian Fusion place around the corner from the hotel. It was buzzing, many tables occupied by groups of women. The food was very tasty, better than most we have had here with regard to flavour. Hotel food is usually good, but not adventurous!
Check out tomorrow is at 1100, so we don't have too much time to wait about for our 1330 pickup.
Thursday, 15th May, 2025
In Hagley Park
e checked out early, leaving our bags to be collected, and walked a couple of blocks to the northern end of Hagley Park. It is a very large area, which encompasses a golf course, playing fields, tennis courts and the Royal Botanic Gardens. We strolled for an hour and a half beside the river until we reached the Gardens, where we wandered around a bit before having coffee and a muffin in their café.
Royal Botanic Gardens
he Gardens were lovely, lots of autumn colour although the flower beds were bare. There were some huge trees and palms, one tree trunk surrounded by seats. They also had a trail of Wollemi pines gifted from Australia, growing nicely. We had a good walk then came back to the hotel to wait, enjoying a long chat with the concierge, a very friendly guy.
e were picked up by the same woman who brought us from the airport. She remembered us, greeting us by name as she came in. Christchurch Airport is such a breeze to navigate, so easy, no crowds. A long wait and a crowded plane, then home to pouring rain which soaked our luggage - half our clothes were sodden! Very annoying.
Our pickup was on time, and we are home!
